The challenge of harvesting sugar is straining Bengali date palm jaggery makers.

• Shiulis, or sap collectors, travel from their native villages to areas like Jaynagar, Belpahari, and Nadia for four months each winter to produce the sought-after date palm jaggery.

• The craft is facing an uncertain future due to urbanisation and changes in weather patterns.

• The growing popularity of the craft, influenced by celebrity chefs and Bollywood stars, has led producers to compromise on quality.

• The process of boiling the sap before it starts to ferment requires patience and precision, as even slight overcooking can spoil the batch.

• The shiulis face the risk of being the last of the shiulis of Jaynagar, a region known for its moa, a soft, round, moist seasonal sweet made with the local nolen gur and puffed rice made from the Kanakchur heirloom variety.

• The number of date palm trees is reducing every year due to urbanisation and associated deforestation.

• Rising average temperatures in winter have made the sap less sweet and the quantity of sap has drastically reduced.

• An initiative was started in 2021 with the local administration to plant 2,000 date palm trees to promote nolen gur, but the trees did not survive due to hurried planting.

• Collateral damage is also a concern, with the taste of the family’s creation changing over time.

• Scholars and farmers in West Bengal are calling for more research on the impact of climate change on the industry and steps for its conservation.